Liquid Green Stuff

Joose · Veteran Joined: Oct 14, 2009 Posts: 68 Location: The beach

This looks very interesting. I'm wondering how viscous it is. This would be great for spots where the bit came off the sprue and left a divot of some kind or for the gap where pieces are glued together.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1380020a

Hatemonger · Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 7:52 pm Post subject: Re: Liquid Green Stuff

Hortonbrian · Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:06 am Post subject:

I just ordered some because I am putting together a lot of DE Wracks and god knows finecast needs filler. I will let everyone know how it goes.
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Hatemonger · Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:56 am Post subject:

Cool, I'm eager to hear.

- H8
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[FB]zetazot · Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:31 pm Post subject:

Interesting... it sounds like Mr. Hobby/Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Surfacer. Paint it on the surface imperfection and then sand it down. Of course that stuff was lacquer based... so this is an improvement on not being severely toxic.

Mr. Surfacer was expensive. I used to use an auto body paste thinned down into a goo with Testor's liquid glue instead. For a little more $ I got a ton of the stuff once it was mixed. Still toxic, but it also was another bonding agent for the parts. Then Tenex came out and plastic model building with out seam lines got a little easier.

For resin you can also use super glue and baking soda as a filler. If you apply a layer of superglue to a seam and gently pour baking soda over it, the glue will cure very quickly. It makes for most effective filler for smaller jobs, and the baking soda results in a slightly rough surface which is good for sanding.
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Hatemonger · Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:38 pm Post subject:

I assume they're trying to emulate some other popular product, if not outright repackaging it. With their washes, they were trying to mimic the popular "magic dip" recipes that some people sold, and IMO they vastly improved upon it.

The problem I have with superglue as a filler is that it is much, much harder than resin or styrene, so when you sand it down, you can be left with a mound of filler with a little trench of resin sanded away around it (the softer material tends to rub away more quickly while the harder one is left behind). That's one reason I like the Kneadatite brown stuff so much - it's nearly identical in hardness to most resin, including the old Armorcast resin.

- H8
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Copyright(C) 2013 Freebooters(TM). Batteries not included. Some assembly required. Not suitable for children under 12. Not a step. This bag is not a toy. Do not put head in Mongo Bat. Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball. Void where prohibited. Die Horribly.

[FB]zetazot · Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:39 pm Post subject:

I've only used the baking soda/super glue thing for some of the pin hole imperfections in some of the resin I've worked with. It was fine. The baking soda makes it easier to work with when you file it down.

For bigger gaps, the brown stuff is good.
_________________
Yargh... She be black...

Please note: If this image changes to something horrible... H8 did it, but I will still blame Wike.